It’s not far off a year since my stay in Santa Teresa but those six days were some of the best of my entire trip around Costa Rica and Nicaragua in 2024. Everything seemed to align perfectly – the people I met there were awesome, the surfing conditions were ideal (for someone of my somewhat novice level), and the sunsets were biblical.

Santa Teresa is located in the Puntaneras Province of Costa Rica on the southwest of the Peninsula de Nicoya. I backpacked mainly around the Peninsula and didn’t make it to the jungle on my trip in this idyllic country, primarily because I was set on surfing in warmer waters than Europe and I have a deep-set fear of creepy crawlies.

The town sandwiches a single main road – the dusty dirt track road is South Santa Teresa, and the tarmac end is North Santa Teresa. I was staying relatively central but just on the north side.

This post is, for the most part, a collection of recommendations, stitched together with a healthy serving of reminiscence. It may not come as a surprise after having read this piece that I am simply dying to go back to this magical place.

How did I get there?

Very important point here as Costa Rica isn’t known for it’s superb network of well-tarmacked roads. I flew into the capital, San José, from San Francisco, CA, via Fort Lauderdale, FL. From San José, I had initially planned to spend some time in Jacó which I immediately didn’t take to, so I booked a one-way boat taxi to Santa Teresa for the next day.

The boat taxi took around two hours door-to-door. Firstly, a shuttle from the hostel to the boat where we boarded, followed by a 40-minute-ride on a speed boat (fresh pineapple included) which handed us over in Montezuma to our 4×4 shuttle to our respective hostels in Santa Teresa.

I booked this through the Selina hostel in Jacó, and the boat taxi was operated by Zuma Tours. I spent $66 on this trip, but found this to be good value considering the alternative was a series of shuttles taking around six hours at best, or if you find yourself to be a victim of ‘Costa Rica time’, perhaps significantly longer.

I would certainly recommend this route to Santa Teresa if you found yourself in Jacó. The door-to-door service (or hostel-to-hostel) was efficient and a safe way to travel, especially as a solo female. I met some new friends on the trip across to the Peninsula, with whom I spent a great deal of the stay with.

Where did I stay?

I found Casa del Sol through HostelWorld, costing around $14 a night. For context, my friends staying at the Selina hostel were paying around 25$ a night but this included a pool and an in-house surf rental.

This hostel was new and very clean. I was in a female 8-bed dorm with a shared bathroom, but the room was never at full capacity. The hostel security was minimal – there were small lockers assigned to each bed, but the sliding French doors in the dorms stepped onto gravel drive next to the main road. It had a friendly outdoor communal kitchen, but I found myself more often than not sat poolside at Selina, where my new friends were based.

If you wanted somewhere more secure (I would next time), then Selina would be good option. Each room requires a guest’s bracelet to gain access, and the concierge desk adds another layer of security.

HostelWorld is an essential app for anyone backpacking or budget travelling. You can book and review hostels, generally paying a deposit equivalent to a single night’s stay, and the remaining balance on leaving your hostel. It is easy to cancel bookings (and even get your deposit back) if plans change or like me, you find you want to go with the flow a little more than originally planned.

What did I do?

Now for the juicy bits, what does one get up to in this gorgeous corner of Central America? In a place like this, life doesn’t quite feel real. You could be a beach bum, a pro surfer, a full-time yogi… whatever your heart desires. The daytime is relaxed, and the evening tends to call in a sunset beer followed by a boogie into the early hours. Santa Teresa is a slice of paradise.

Isla Tortuga

On my first full day on the peninsula, my new friend (from the boat taxi) had roped me into an organised day trip snorkelling around Isla Tortuga, near Montezuma. This day was hilarious from start to finish, primarily thanks to our little group we had formed with our fellow shuttle passengers, and several pineapple-sized piña coladas.

Said shuttle picked us up from Casa del Sol and ferried us to a village near Montezuma where we were put on a boat with a few more tourists. After 40 minutes on the boat, we arrived at the first snorkel location, kitted up and jumped in. I saw some non-descript fish and before I knew it, we were back on the boat bound for the next location. The team running the trip were good-humoured and plied us with beers from 10am onwards, which helped the fish to appear remarkably more interesting.

At the next stop, we deployed in a sea of other tourists snorkelling with various tour operators. I saw a sea snake and took that as my cue to exit the water and reapply sunscreen. A little while longer and the boat decanted us upon the shores of Isla Tortuga where our team prepared us lunch.

Following a standard Costa Rican culinary experience, we found ourselves somewhat abandoned on this island, and after several seconds of observation we understood that we were on a tourist trap island – quite literally trapped there!

There was a gift shop – obviously not free, bathrooms – pennies required, deck chairs – of a similar financial nature, and a lovely walk one could take around the island – 6$ per person. My group of four decided to do the walk which took all of 20 minutes, followed by a round of giant piña coladas served in gutted pineapples.

This trip cost me $80 and we booked through a company we found close to Selina. Did I have a great time? Absolutely. Would I do it again? No. The new friends made that day.

ATVs to the Montezuma Waterfalls

Two friends and I rented an ATV (all-terrain vehicle) and a motorbike to head out to the Montezuma Waterfalls from ST for the day. Finding a rental place is easy, most people hire ATVs in ST to travel through the town and explore the local area. These vehicles are not known for being an overly safe mode of transport, so please wear a helmet if you do decide to rent one!

The journey to the falls took around 45 minutes on clear roads. We parked in the falls’ carpark and double checked the map before setting off. There are three pools in these falls, and all three are accessible depending on your ability.

It was a 15-minute walk to the bottom pool where most tourists end their walk – the pool was several metres deep but relatively crowded. We pushed on to the next pool which required a considerable capacity for climbing. Another 15 minutes further saw us reach the second pool which was tucked away in the shade, not another person in sight. We spent an hour or so bathing, jumping and chilling here, it was serene and the multitudes of people 40 metres below us were unnoticeable.

If you have the chance to go here, it is beautiful and a welcome refuge from the sunshine after several days surfing. I shared the ATV with one of the guys, costing us around $80-90 each for the day. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Every penny. Would I go again? In a heartbeat.

Surf

Santa Teresa has great waves for all levels, with several surf schools in the area and a handful of private instructors based here.

I managed to surf each day with friends, where we would tend to share a board between two during the day. It cost $10-20 for the day rental for one board, which worked out very well. It was so warm (even the ocean was akin to a semi-heated pool) and the UV was incredibly strong – switching between two allowed us to alternate breaks from the powerful tropical sun, reapply sunscreen, rehydrate and watch the other’s belongings.

We would all take a break for lunch, followed by an afternoon stint in the water punctuated by refreshments. On the menu we had fresh watermelon, pineapple and coconut from local vendors on the beach.

Bring a towel, some cash, a book and plenty of water for your shade time. There are worse ways to spend a day.

Sunset

I mentioned biblical, these were nothing short of a religious experience. The ST sunsets were some of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. The daily ritual of watching sunset on the beach was bliss, and brought out an innate primal quality in everyone as the masses descended upon the sand to bid the day farewell.

Our growing international friendship group would coordinate surf boards and beers each evening as we watched the sun go down. One evening someone brought their drone to film us catching a few waves which was very special – surfing during golden hour is a type of euphoria which one would be hard-pushed to recreate. Our Chilean friends taught a few of us to salsa in the sand, significantly more challenging than on the dancefloor.

Shops

There were a handful of shops scattered throughout the town, mostly quite expensive. They usually stock independent brands of beach apparel, jewellery and activewear – they know their target audience.

Where did I eat and drink?

Eat Street

I am not too sure how the staff weren’t sick of us by the end. This nook was our go-to for breakfast, brunch and lunch. It is a food quarter/market of sorts with three or four different eateries and a bar. Most mornings would commence meeting my Norwegian buddy down there for a smoothie and a coffee pre-surf. By the end, the other girls and I had convinced him to truly lean into the concept of brunch, where he had a hot pink, dragon fruit smoothie bowl ‘with the girlies’.

We had many meals here, including nachos and pad thai – if you head here you are very likely to find something you like. In the evenings there would often be a small band and a lively ambiance around the bar.

Kooks

I had heard about this bar before arriving in ST and it was good fun. A great bar to meet friends in the evening for dinner or just a drink. You can usually catch live music here. Please learn from my mistake… do not order the Pacific Mule cocktail.

Kaukau

I adored this little gem of a coffee shop directly opposite Casa del Sol, on the ocean side of the main road. Great coffee brings me immense pleasure, and Kaukau delivered. The team are very friendly and it exudes a certain calmness perfect when paired with that first sip of brew in the morning. Their smoothie bowls also deserve a round of applause.

Satori

Dinner at Satori was a real treat. We managed to find a table for 10 of us post-surf (freshly showered of course) and this spot is upmarket for this dirt-track-road town. We were some of the only backpacker types in the restaurant most likely because it was not budget friendly. Each dish was sensational and I do not regret a penny spent here.

Banana Beach

I only frequented this bar once. 2-for-1 cocktails. Pet fashion show. Swings at the bar. Wild but fun.

General Advice

Walking at Night

I would strongly advise you do not walk alone at night regardless of gender. Friends staying at Selina would often drop me off as Casa del Sol was closer to the bars and return in numbers to their end of the town. There is a likelihood of mugging when walking alone, or worse. Don’t do anything you wouldn’t do in London for example – just because everyone seems to be on holiday, it is not an excuse to forget about your safety in a new place so stay alert and ensure someone you trust can walk you back.

Similarly, a lot of people ride their ATVs drunk when heading back from the bar. This is illegal and very dangerous – watch out when walking home. One guy we all met on the beach was carted off to San José in an ambulance after snapping his ankle, trying to drive back to the north end of ST after partying.

Staying Hydrated and Avoiding Sunburn

It is usually around 28 C in February/March which is when I visited. Coming from English winter, it is easy to take for granted the importance of hydration and how many electrolytes and water you lose in sweat. I had a constant supply of a drink called Electrolit which is widely available in supermarkets across the country. It helps maintain a certain level of electrolytes in the body making it an essential in those temperatures, and on occasion can be a lifesaver after dancing the night away at the bar.

The sun in this part of the world, it’s the real deal. Forget what you know about English sunburn, this one will really damage your skin. You need trustworthy sunscreen from a reputable brand such as SunBum (widely sold but expensive). I learnt the hard way surfing one day, and immediately invested in a pot of zinc sun block like any wannabe-pro. Also wear a hat when surfing, you don’t want that kind of burn on your scalp.

Lonely Planet Guides

I had read my Costa Rica guide cover to cover prior to this trip and gleaned every top tip. One tip I was particularly excited to exercise was the $5 meals from sodas (the locals’ eateries which you’ll see all over). However, the locals see tourists from a million miles away and will not give you the menu with 5$ meals, even if you ask. So Lonely Planet, that’s a fabulous tip if you settle down in Costa Rica, but not so accurate if you are passing through for several days – you’ll likely be paying double or triple for the same meal, but the sodas tend to serve substantial portions.

Jungle Rave

So many people talk about the jungle rave but from what I observed, organising transport is a nightmare. Once you arrive, you are stuck until sunrise unless by some miracle you manage to organise a taxi or friends with an ATV to collect you. I’m not one to say no to a dance, but I cannot stand the idea of being trapped somewhere. Final verdict: not worth it.

Until next time

I hope I have given you a taste of the richness that is Santa Teresa, you have to see the magic yourself. In a parallel universe, I work part-time in one of the expensive concept stores, I live in an AirBnB close to the beach with an outdoor shower, and I surf every sunset.

Disclaimer: all photos are my own.